We did a lot of peeling back for the Dries Van Noten Spring 2014 collection. The designer of the eponymous line was once called “one of fashion’s most cerebral designers” by the New York Times and he lives up to it. Noten sent out a collection of 50 looks, many of which were layered—a gold tube top under a sheer white blouse under an boxy beige jacket or printed robe jacket over a pleated gold blouse—though with spring-appropriate lightweight fabrics like linen. But the line wasn’t your typical beachy-boudoir fashion. Noten built on and elevated these classic styles, incorporating antiquated bishop sleeves; decorative ruffles that either completely covered pieces or decorated the seams of dress shoulders and skirt sides to subtly give the effect of deconstruction; and the generous inclusion of gold lamé for accents and whole garments like a pleated midi skirt. His inspiration was the Byzantine empire (whose capital would be modern day Istanbul) evident in pieces like the silky robe coats or details like the shaggy carpet tassels. But Byzantium wasn’t without the rise and falls that almost all empires have seen, which may explain Dries Van Noten’s oppositional pairings like a simple gray tank with an elaborately ruffled pencil skirt—a juxtaposition that underscored the Spring 2014 line.
Check out these looks from the layered collection.