Milan’s menswear fashion week ended on a strong note for fashion-forward men. Collections introduced capes, bags, ornate patterns, and furs–pieces that won’t necessarily apply to the sartorially shy. Not to leave them out in the cold, Ports 1961 and Z Zenga came through with less bold pieces that, while still elegant and sophisticated, have broader mass appeal.
Specifically on Day 3, it seemed many of the designers were on one accord. Instead of reaching for bold prints and possibly experimental designs, designers from the teams at Gucci, Fendi, and Ports 1961 for the most part used swatches of muted or saturated hues in boxy, oversized silhouettes, paying heavy mind to outerwear.
Day 4 brought out the big and the bold via strong, nomadic designs from Roberto Cavalli and an impressive collection of outerwear in an array of luxurious fabrics from Giorgio Armani.
Click through for an overview of some of our favorite shows from Day 3 and Day 4 of Milan Men’s Fashion Week.
Day 3: Ports 1961
Ian Hylton and Fiona Cibani crafted a version of relaxed elegance at Ports 1961. In a palette of deep reds, grays, and a healthy helping of navy and the requisite black, pieces came down layered with a focus on boxy silhouettes. Attempts at going editorial came manifest in hi-low hooded ponchos that the jury hasn’t quite convened on. Matched with backpacks to inject a bit of youth, the collection seemed wrapped in a requisite “cool” factor, coming off at times a bit Valentino.
Day 3: Fendi
Either go big or go home. That seemed to be Silvia Venturini Fendi’s edict at Fendi for Fall 2014. With a fur-lined runway, one would have been a bit misguided to think that it wouldn’t turn up as a part of the looks–and turn up it did. With long-haired strands as a part of the gloves, and medium lengths for color mixing on jackets, the Fendi man seems to know the power of restraint and, ultimately, of styling. Of course to talk about the coats would be nothing if not to refer to the fantastic prints. As a sort of counter to Miuccia Prada’s offerings for women last season, the wares are certainly not for the meek.
Day 3: Gucci
Frida Giannini caught the strongest hold on the relaxed luxury train for Gucci’s show via a selection of slouch bags to be held with the arm through both handles. Instead of saturated, Giannini’s palette moved toward light and muted, staying within the codes of the house with strong, wide-lapeled outerwear.
Day 4: Roberto Cavalli
“A free-spirited gentleman and dreamer, the Roberto Cavalli man is nomadic in his ways and artistic in his wardrobe, but always remains impeccably dressed,” says the Facebook album for the Roberto Cavalli’s F/W 2014 collection. Continuing the use of earth tones seen in Days 1 and 2 of Milan Fashion Week, Cavalli infused his stylish nomads with hits of gold and red, and used elaborate, detailed prints featured on silk shirts and ornate blazers. No fall/winter collection is complete without an array of jackets, and Cavalli’s crop of outwear will please both the stylishly conservative and those looking for a more bold look.
Day 4: Z Zenga
The Z Zenga F/W 2014 man is “the quintessential Modernist.” The brand reports that a “Mod undercurrent” pervades the collection “where sartorial expertise becomes a high-impact expression of studied individuality, upbeat energy and relaxed elegance for a younger generation.” The collection full of suits seemingly inspired by 20s-era Wall Street gets balanced by many outerwear looks with pops of modern bright yellow against more muted neutrals in browns, grays, and navy.
Day 4: Giorgio Armani
In the Giorgio Armani F/W 2014 collection, there was a focus on jackets that are “more than jackets,” and instead become concepts of “style and behavior.” Armani sought to re-imagine the deconstructed jackets of the 1970s into something more like a cardigan that showcases, “an athletic male silhouette with a spirit of sobriety.” Using traditional masculine colors, the idea was to create looks that appear almost flannel-like using warm and comfortable fabrics. The collection was chock full of comfortable yet elegant looks to take you from the board room to the whiskey bar, and will appeal to the style-conscious metropolitan male with an eye for classic styles and heritage design.