There is a quote that reverberates in mind every time I hear the name John Galliano in relation to his designs. “Season after season, [Galliano] faces a singular criticism: Where are the clothes? You know, John, the real clothes, the buy ’em, hang ’em, wear ’em clothes?” It’s from Women’s Wear Daily who was critiquing the designer’s Christian Dior couture collection for the Fall 1998 season. It’s quite comical, slightly stinging but most importantly it was true. At the end of the day the idea haunts Galliano.
We all know that Galliano is quite a showman. We’ve come to expect it. Grandiose sets, theatrical presentations, we love it all. So for his debut ready to wear collection at Margiela, Galliano went back to that bag of tricks. The make-up was overdone, the hair, askew, it was fluff. What’s getting the most attention is the way the models walked. They were hunch backed, hands in pockets. Sometimes they were clutching at themselves, holding their arms inclose. To be honest, they looked like we do running through the biting winds of Manhattan when we haven’t dressed adequately.
But now back to the clothes. Galliano has learned, no matter the presentation, the clothes matter. There were fun, quirky, house appropriate indulgences like long haired shoes but also stand out ankle length overcoat, a slick leather version in black and the cutest velour suit.
Sobriety is looking good on your John and it looks like it’ll look pretty good on us!