Stefano Pilati is a really good designer; no honestly, he’s really good. The only thing is he’s sort of a quiet designer. You’re not going to see him parading out to close a show like the Galliano of yore, nor will you see him putting pop inspired, headline grabbing collections on the runway. He honestly doesn’t even have the non-dscript but demanding presence of Raf Simons who by no stretch of the imagination is media-hungry but happens to push the industry in such a way that his work alone demands attention. Pilot is not that designer.
He’s a dutiful designer, a conscious designer. he turns out respectable pieces and acknowledges whatever design lineage preceded him. It wasn’t enough to keep him in at Saint Laurent — he had no where near the star power and antics of the house’s current creative director Hedi Slimane — but it was enough to bag him the Italian house of Zegna. With a large focus on their men’s division, the designer also was handed their women’s business Agnona, in order to give it a refresh. And that he did, hosting a pop-up shop and naming his debut as Collection 0.
Now though, Pilati is leaving Agnona. The brand is likely to name a replacement designer soon and Pilati is said to be pursuing personal projects instead. Is this to be the start of an eponymous womenswear label? Only time will tell.
While we wait though, let’s take a look at the side of the business that Zegna is keeping him on: menswear. Here are a few looks from Pilati’s past Zegna shows.